In the Zghorta sub-prefecture, on a hillock four miles
south-east of the town of Zghorta which dominates
the region from an altitude of some six hundred feet,
there lies the picturesque little village of La’al.
Its name is of Canaanite origin and is generally considered
to have meant a wild or mountain goat. Although some
think that it is of more recent history and would
mean gain or benefit, the fact is that this region
between the Zghorta and Koura districts once abounded
in flocks of goats with their herders and this is
the part of the country where the meat of goats is
most commonly eaten.
There are two groups of buildings in the place, the
village and the citadel. In the village there are
several venerable old houses of pleasant aspect, some
reconditioned and others in various degrees dilapidated.
The village stands on a very old site marked by an
ancient water mill, some arches of historic interest,
an olive press, and a large number of grottoes among
the rocks.
Being lower down than Miziara, La’al has taken advantage
of the spring at Miziara to water its rich plots of
land that yield abundant harvests. Other springs add
to the fertility of the district such as Lakiss, Atiqa
of the mint, Zireh of the overshadowing plane trees,
and spring of the Gazelle among others. There are
very many olive trees, some of great age and others
planted more recently. There are also apricot and
plum trees as well as grapevines and of course woodland
trees such as pines and oaks.
To reach La’al one may take the road from Tripoli
and go through Zghorta and Ehden or take the route
passing through Amioun, Koura and Zghorta; minor roads
link up the surrounding villages. La’al is one of
those villages now somewhat abandoned as the inhabitants
go to work elsewhere, in Tripoli or Koura.
The citadel of La’ab, 45,000 sq. feet, was constructed
by Barbar Agha, governor of Tripoli between 1812 and
1814. It has towers at its four corners and high fortress
walls. Inside there are magazines, water tanks, storage
space for provisions, stables for horses, rooms for
soldiers, reception halls, a tribunal, living-rooms
and a mosque. Finally there are some vaults, one where
the body of Barbar Agha lies and others for the remains
of those close to him. An old olive tree raises its
branches at the entrance of the fortress. Little has
been done by either the local inhabitants or the authorities
to look after the citadel but it has always drawn
curious sightseers.
Barbar Agha was helpless in the face of Ahmad Basha
el-Jazzar, governor of Akkar (St. John of Acre), who
at that time was the all-powerful representative of
the Sublime Porte ay Istanbul. Now his citadel remains
as an interesting venue for visitors and deserves
to be kept in better condition.
Joseph Matar - Translation from the French:
Kenneth Mortimer
