Discover Tripoli: Mosques, Hammam, Khans, Al Mina

Tripoli - Second largest city in Lebanon
Altitude: Coastal - Inhabitants: 500.000

Getting there: Take the highway to the north. Tripoli is approximately 85 km from Beirut.

Today, Tripoli is a maze of slender, bustling alleyways that offer a window onto the city's distinctive Mameluke architecture and its old souqs, replete with madrassas, khans and hammams. Tripoli is composed of two parts: Al-Mina or the port, has throughout the centuries, played an essential role in encouraging the development of Tripoli. The town itself lies on both banks of Nahr Abu Ali.

Erected on a rocky promontory, the city was a major outpost from which the legendary Phoenicians would set sail and trade their goods. Tripoli's strategic position was due to offshore islands, natural ports and the easy access it offered to the hinterland.

On the right bank of Nahr Abou Ali, lies Qalaat Sinjil, the Citadel Saint-Gilles, a citadel and Crusader landmark built in 1109 by Raymond de Saint-Gilles, Count of Toulouse. Today, not much is left of the fort, aside from its foundations, a pilaster, masonry blocks and the inner gate. Nevertheless, the site offers a unique view of the city.

Today, Tripoli is the second largest city in Lebanon. It is the main city in North Lebanon and enjoys strong ties with neighboring Syria. In that respect, Tripoli is the most Arab city in Lebanon. Though it has often hit the headlines in recent times, it should be remembered for its fantastic past. Nowhere in Lebanon is Mameluke heritage better displayed than in the mosques, madrassas, khans and hammams of Tripoli.

Evidence of early settlement in Tripoli goes back to the late Bronze Age 1400 BC, thanks to the discovery of pottery fragments and other written records mentioning the presence of Canaanites (the people living on the land before they were called Phoenicians by the Greeks).

In the 8th century BC, the city became a major trading post from which Phoenician boats explored the shores of North Africa and Southern Europe, ultimately setting up commercial outposts of those places.

By 550 BC, Phoenicia became part of the Persian Empire. It gained its independence in 351 BC. Shortly thereafter, Tripoli, the “triple city”, coalesced into one entity becoming the core of a confederation with the three main Phoenician city-states: Tyre, Sidon and Aruad.

Independence was short lived though, when Alexander the Great followed in the wake of the Persians. In 333 BC Alexander's army took over Tripoli from the Persians. At his death, years later, his close commanders took power, marking the beginning of the Seleucid Empire (312-61 BC) with Antioch as capital of their Syrian Empire. Tripoli belonged to the Phoenician province. At this period, the city became an important naval hub.
In 64 BC, Phoenicia became a Roman province. Tripoli was a self-governed city-state, famed for its shipbuilding and cedar timber trade. The brilliant rise of Tripoli was halted in 551, not by a conquering army, but an earth-quake, followed by tsunami tidal wave. With the help of Byzantine emperor Justinian l (483-565 AD), Tripoli was rebuilt, which was not the case of other city-states, such as Berytus (Beirut).

Soon thereafter, the Arab warrior Sufyan Ibn Magid Al Azdi laid siege to Tripoli. He built an impressive fort (645-646) on the hills overlooking the city. The Byzantines could not accept their demise and continued incursions throughout Umayyad, Abbassid and Fatimid rule. In 1070, under the Banu Ammar Emirs, the city prospered and a magnificent library containing over three million manuscripts was erected. Still the religious clashes did not stop. In the beginning of the 12th century, the city fell under attacks by the Crusaders', coming from Western Europe for the ‘liberation’ of Jerusalem. In 1099, a ten-year siege of Tripoli was initiated by Raymond of Saint-Gilles, the count of Toulouse. Saint-Gilles ultimately prevailed and built a citadel in Tripoli, which was to be completed in 1109. The Crusaders were to rule over Tripoli and its surrounding coastline until the end of the 13th century, when the Muslim forces once again took over, under the legendary Baibar dynasty. In 1289, the Crusaders retreated from Tripoli (the harbor city or “El Mina”) under pressure from Sultan al-Mansur Qalawun, never to return. The city fell under Mamelukes and remained under their rule for over two centuries. In 1516, the Ottoman Empire took over. Ties with the west were not completely cut, as a treaty between Suleiman the Magnificent, and the king of France, Francois l, guaranteed the French special favors and privileges in the Levant, including maintaining links with the Christians population. In 1612, a massive flood destroyed several Mameluke monuments. In 1623, Fakhr ad Din attacked the forces of the Pasha of Tripoli in Anjar; Tripoli fell to Fakhr ad Din (Sultan al-Barr or Sultan of the Land) whose descendents would be instrumental in unifying Lebanon. Throughout Ottoman rule, Tripoli retained its prosperity and commercial importance.

KEY TO THE CITY

A walk through the city starts at the Clock Tower, a major monument built in 1901 by Ottomans and recently restored by the Turkish state. At the crossroads of main traffic routes, “Al Tell” is considered as a meeting point for transportation across Lebanon and towards neighboring Syria.

Khanqash was constructed during the second half of the 15th century to house mystics and Sufis. It is designed with an open courtyard and pool. The courtyard is surrounded by small rooms and a pedestal, oriwan, behind an arch of alternating black and white patterns supported by granite columns.

Church of St. John of the Pilgrims Mount where significant remains were found in the Maronite Cemetery of St John about 200m South of the Castle on Abu Samra hill. There are two joined chapels. One features a semi-circular apse and the smaller one, with a rectangular apse, which was reserved for funerary purposes.

Next on the list is the Great Mosque El Mansouri. Its construction started in 1294 with Ashraf Khalil Bin Qalawoun and was completed in 1315. It was built on the ruins of the 12th century Crusader cathedral of St. Mary of the Tower, it is composed of a large courtyard surrounded by porticos, a dome and a vaulted prayer hall. Some remains of ancient architecture have been preserved such as the Northern entrance and the Lombard style bell tower that has been transformed into a minaret. Works are in progress to renovate the monument.

The Taynal Mosque was built in 1336 by Saif ad Dine Taynal. It was probably the location of the former Crusader Carmelite church. Adjacent is a domed mausoleum where the tomb of the founder lies. As it is often the case when monuments are built on top of another structure, that structure is adapted in some parts and rehabilitated in the new monument. In this case two rows of granite columns with late Roman capitals lie in the center of the first prayer hall. The rich and monumental entrance of the second prayer hall is a representative of typical Mameluke architecture.

Al-Muallaq Mosque or “hanging mosque”, lies on the second floor and dates back to the middle of the 16th century. The minaret is octagonal. Another feature is the interior that is whitewashed.

The Al-Attar Mosque was erected in 1335 AD by Badr ad Dine El Attar. It features a square sandstone minaret tower and a copper dome. Above the entrance door, there are beautiful decorated marquetery composed of polychromic stones.

Overlooking the city and Nahr Abu Ali is the imposing citadel known as Qal'at Sinjil (open daily 8am-4pm), and one of the most impressive Crusader achievements in Lebanon. On former Mount Pilgrim, in 1102 AD, Count Raymond de Saint-Gilles started building the fortress in order to control the city more efficiently. Seriously destroyed in 1289 by Sultan Mansour Qalawoun, it was built again by the Mamelukes who made some additions in the 14th century; again after the 16th century the Ottomans added other features, amongst which was a mosque. The citadel entrance has an impressive Ottoman gateway with engravings from Suleyman the Magnificent. The building features an original octagonal Fatimid construction converted into a crypt of a church built by the Crusaders. The citadel was mainly restored by Mustafa Barbar Agha, governor of Tripoli at the beginning of the 19th century. It is one of the best spots to enjoy a view of the old and the new city.

There are a handful of madrassas built by Mamelukes in Tripoli. The Madrassas are schools dedicated to the teaching of the Holy Qur'an. The first madrassa was created in Fez, Morocco, in 859 AD. At the end of the 11th century, the concept of madrassas became widespread through-out countries in the Muslim world. The Mamelukes went a long way towards democraticizing the madrassas. Built in the 13th century, Al Madrassa ash Shamsiyah is the oldest madrassa in Lebanon.

Al Burtasiyat Madrassa-Mosque was built in 1310 by Kurdish prince lzz Ibn Umar el Burtasi. It is located on the edge of Abu Ali River. The impressive domed structure has a square minaret erected above the entrance arch. The arches are typical of the Mameluke era framed by black and white patterns. The portal made of dark stone is adorned with stalactites. An ornate golden mosaic covers the mihrab.

The highlight of Al Qartawiyat Madrassa is the fine decoration of its ceilings at the entrance that have the typical honeycomb patterns and stalactites. The façade alternates black and white facings above the lintel. Built in 1316-1326 by Amir Saif Ed Dine Qartay lbn Abdullah en Nasri, it is a most ornate building. Especially of note is the oval dome above the prayer hall.

Madrassa Al Tuwashiyat was built during the second half of the 15th century. The structure and the mausoleum are made of sandstone decorated with classic black and white Mamaluke patterns. The portal is adorned with shell motifs, stalactites and twisted colonnettes.

The hammams are public baths widely inspired by the Romans. The hammams usually feature several bathing alcoves, hot water steam rooms with typical Mameluke-inspired glass pierced domes for natural lighting. Inside, decoration is made of marble pavements, basins and fountains.

Hammam 'lzz ed-Dine, is the oldest public bathing-house in Tripoli built at the turn of the 13th century. It was a gift from Mameluke governor 'lzz ed-Dine Aybak el Mawsili who is buried in a mausoleum nearby. The hammam lies on remains of a crusader church and hospice of Saint James. The front portal is decorated with an inscribed fragment between two Saint-James shells, and the inner door is surmounted by the Pascal Lamb. The Hammam 'lzz ed-Dine is closed to the public as it is currently under restoration.

Hammam El Nouri was completed in 1333 by Prince Sonkor Bin Abdullah el-Nouri. It is a typical Mameluke style public bath with a hot water steam large hall and classical multicolored marble pavement.

Hammam El Abed (open daily 8am-10pm, men only) is Tripoli's only operating hammam and was built at the end of the 17th century. It has the typical colorful pierced domes of Mameluke and Ottoman era public baths. The interior, with its cushions, central fountain and traditional fittings, is a good place to have a tea while waiting for a massage. Unfortunately, it is a men-only hammam.

Hammam Al Jadid or “the New Bath” dates to 1730 and was donated by Pasha el Azem, governor of Damascus. It is renowned as the largest bath in the city covering 600 sq.m. It has been closed for decades but has kept its grandeur that will soon been revealed after restoration is completed.

The Khans or caravanserail are former hotels dating back to the 13th century. They were divided into different sections: stables for horses, rooms for travelers and warehouses to stock goods. The Khan Al Khayyatin is the tailors' caravanserail, one of the oldest in Tripoli, dating to the first half of the 14th century. Formerly there used to be a Byzantine and Crusader monument in the center of the ancient commercial suburbs that controlled passage over the Abu Ali river. The recently restored structure is a long passageway with tall white arches on both sides and ten transverse arches. At an entrance, there is a granite column surmounted by a marble Corinthian capital. Recently refurbished, the khan has a splendid, classical maze to stroll through.

The Khan Al Misriyyin, caravanserail of the Egyptians, dates to the first half of the 14th century. The structure is typical of the arcaded two-story khan with its middle, open courtyard and its fountain.
Souk Al-Haraj was built in the 14th century on remains of Roman structures. The high-vaulted ceilings are supported by granite columns. Recently renovated, it used to house a big covered market.

Khan As Saboun was built by Youssef Al Saifi, Pasha of Tripoli, in the 17th century. The imposing structure is wrapped around a central fountain. Nowadays, the caravanserail is a major outpost for the Tripoli soap industry run by the Hassoun family.

Al Mina
The district of Al Mina offers beautiful promenades along the harbour or in the maze of lively streets of the Christian harra (zone).

Lions' Tower
Though many coastal towers built during Mameluke rule have been destroyed or encroached upon by modern building, here it is not the case as the tower is relatively well preserved.
The mid-15th century Tower of the Lions is still intact. Its name refers to the lions carved in relief that once stood above the entrance. The two-story fortress is made of blue-grey limestone with lofty vaulted ceilings. The west portal has the characteristics of the Mameluke black and white stone pattern.

The Palm Islands Reserve
Offshore, is a string of islets: the largest one, the Island of Palm Trees or Rabbit's Island, is now a nature reserve for green turtles and rare birds since UNESCO declared it a protected area in 1992.

The Rachid Karame International Fair
Built at the entrance of Tripoli, the Rachid Karame center is an architectural masterpiece, designed by renowned Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. Composed of several buildings, including a Lebanese pavilion, replete with arches (albeit with a modernist twist) the center was left incomplete at the onset of the Lebanese civil war in 1975.

Extract from the book 'A Complete insiders Guide to Lebanon